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trip logs

Riding the ebb to someplace new

Last night while I was tucking Holly into bed she asked me: “Where are we going to be after breakfast?” She was referring to the fact that nearly every morning for the past week she’s woken up while we’ve been underway and eaten her breakfast in the cockpit while we’ve made our way to someplace new.

Michael and I have been getting up at the crack of dawn each morning to travel north. It’s definitely not my preferred hour of waking but the tides are calling the shots. We’ve been riding the ebb north, through rapids and channels 600 feet deep flanked by peaks thousands of feet tall, making our way to the northern tip of Vancouver Island. Weather permitting, we’ll round Cape Scott this weekend and point our bow south for a good long time.

While we thought that sailing these long stretches (well, truth be told, motoring) would be tedious we’ve all quickly fallen into a comfortable routine. Michael and I wake with the sunrise, have a cup of coffee, haul anchor, then get underway. We get a few hours of traveling in before the girls wake (usually around 9 – the engine is a wonderful white noise generator!) The girls have breakfast and play in the cockpit with us or down below for a few hours and we usually reach our next anchorage by noon and have the afternoon to play and explore. We’ve swam in Pender Harbour, eaten ice-cream in the sunshine in Squirrel Cove in Desolation Sound, hiked around Big Bay singing loudly in case any bears were nearby, visited the 100+ year old store/post office (now museum) in Port Neville and now we are in Alert Bay absorbing thousands of years of Northwest Native culture and history.

Michael and I have been savoring this trip down memory lane. We’ve sailed this way three times now and it’s even more magnificent up here than we remember. Along the way, we came to see it was necessary for us to make this trip around the island after all. We have been getting used to our boat and her routines, learning to work together onboard again, and the girls have been learning what it means to sail full time. We are challenged each and every day by wind, weather, rocks, tides, currents, emotions.

Most of all, each day is absolutely filled with wonder, as we hoped it would be.

Blasting northwards

 

The graphic you see above is what we’ve been looking at on the Environment Canada website for the past week and a half. Wind, wind and more wind coming directly from the west in the Strait of Juan de Fuca. We’ve been waiting for a quiet weather window that just doesn’t seem to want to open.

Yesterday morning, we awoke at 4 am to listen to the current conditions at Race Rocks, the notoriously windy and rough area just south of Victoria. It was blowing 21 knots, with westerly winds of 15 knots further out in the strait with winds expected to increase to 25-30 in the afternoon. We’d decided the night before that we were going somewhere. North, south, east, west– we didn’t care but we’d been in the same general area for two weeks and with so much to explore here we were itching to get exploring.

At 0600, after hemming and hawing over several cups of coffee we hauled the anchor up, still not sure where we were headed.

Suddenly, like an epiphany, we knew were we needed to go.

North.

It was glassy as we motored back up Haro Strait, following our plotted course for Nanaimo, a town we had always wanted to visit but hadn’t before. Now the perfect spot to reprovision, fill up with water, dinghy gas and jump across the Strait of Georgia making our way to Desolation Sound. We didn’t come across any breeze until Galiano Island, but it was just enough to practice flying our favorite new sail for a few miles.

We reached Nanaimo 12 hours later and found the harbour anchorage off Newcastle Island to be absolutely jam-packed with boats and happy laughing people and live music blaring from the shore, the Dinghy Dock Pub, and from most of the boats around us. Wow, we thought, Nanaimo sure knows how to celebrate a Saturday night.

But more boats continued to pour in, drop their hooks and raft up, small and large. Surely something has to be going on here other than a Saturday night. Sure enough, we were able to connect to an open Wifi signal and found out that we had landed during Nanaimo’s biggest weekend of the year: Marine Festival and World Championship Bathtub Race.

We also learned that fireworks were starting in 20 minutes. We got the girls back out of bed and were soon in awe at the most awesome small-town fireworks display we’d ever seen. Right from our cockpit.

What a welcome to the north!

Whitecaps

We had motored away from Sidney Spit in a dying westerly breeze. An hour before I had tucked away everything below, expecting a romping beam reach but now that we were underway the wind had decreased to…nothing at all. But once we were out of Sidney Channel and into Haro Strait we found our wind.

Forecast wind today in Haro Strait: 15-20 knots southwesterly. A fine wind to make our way south again towards Victoria, then west out the Straits this weekend. We raised our full mainsail and the genoa. Ten minutes later someone opened the faucet and more wind came pouring across the Sannich peninsula, then even more. Wondertime careened to port and all that I’d overlooked tucking away came hurtling downwind as well. I checked on Holly napping in her bunk, then Leah playing in our protective bunk. I told her that she’d want to stay in there for a while and she told me no problem and went back to playing her Leapfrog.

Back outside, we reefed the mainsail down all the way, furled the genoa and unfurled our tiny staysail. Michael went below to check the chart and I was alone with the whitecaps.

With less sail up, Wondertime only heels slightly. The autopilot steers the boat easily and her motion is smooth and even. The waves are choppy with the opposing current but we slice right through most of them. Even so, when the wind comes like this, I shiver and grit my teeth. I am afraid: of more wind, of something breaking, of not knowing what will happen next. The wind howls. Wondertime cuts through a wave and the spray is thrown into the cockpit. I duck behind the dodger a little too late and taste salt. This does not help the shivering.

More wind comes pouring over us. I can hardly believe it. Paradoxically my nerves calm as I see we are only a few miles from the sheltered bay we will anchor at tonight. (When we arrive, we check the buoy reports and find it’s 34 steady, gusting 40 just south of us outside of Victoria). We are also tucked behind the lee of the land and the waves have gotten smaller. Wondertime continues to jaunt along close-hauled at 6 knots like she’s pleased as punch. All the wind being hurled at us seems a bit silly now. We can do this.

More gusts, higher gusts. Wondertime shimmies, she skirts around like a filly trying to shake off a bit. She seems…uncomfortable, restless. Michael and I furl the staysail until it’s the size of a hankie.

Then the boat is satisfied again, and continues on her merrily way south. I am satisfied too. I trust we’ll make it.

Back to the islands

We are anchored off Sidney Spit tonight and just watched an orangy glowy sunset together in the cockpit. After a week in the town of Sidney, it feels marvelous to be at anchor again. We got quite a number of jobs checked off during our visit however and were even fortunate to be able to borrow a friend-of-a-friend’s slip for the week while they were hauled out at the boatyard.

After searching for a shop able to make new tangs for our masts the past few months without success we found the exact stainless tangs we needed at a local rigging shop here (Yachttech – excellent!). It was really nice to be still at the dock for hauling Michael and his tools up and down the masts about 12 (more!) times to get the shiny new tangs installed. (Our old tangs had obvious pitting and corrosion and were in desperate need of replacement). Wondertime’s rig is finally offshore ready which is a good feeling.

In Sidney we also had our first adventures at getting around town without a car. This being British Columbia the girls were over the moon at getting to ride on our first double-decker buses (top level, front seats naturally). We were fortunate that there was a route that ran right near the marina we were staying at (North Saanich) all the way to downtown Sidney. We took away several valuable lessons during our trips around town via dinghy, foot and public transportation:

1. Make sure you have broken your fresh $20 bill before you get to the bus stop that is miles away from any open shops.
2. When you are traveling with two young children, bus drivers are really nice about letting you use your transfer that is hours expired.
3. Bring your raincoat, especially when you are in Canada. Even in July.
4. It really is worth it to buy a local map when preparing to walk through the industrial part of town with two short-legged people in tow searching for a small rigging shop hidden amongst auto repair shops and lumber yards.
5. Before you haul your two tired and hungry children 1/2 mile to the bus stop, then wait 15 minutes in the rain for the bus, then ride 10 minutes to your stop, then hike another mile up the hill to the pub you are dying to eat (and drink beer) at…call to make sure minors are allowed in first.

Even with eating ice-cream almost daily in town we were more than ready to head back out to the islands after a week of the hectic “getting stuff done while we have the opportunity.” This morning we hopped across the bay to Sidney Spit marine park to wait out some strong winds that are forecast in the Strait of Juan de Fuca the next couple of days. After that we hope to catch a few quiet early morning windows and finally reach Barkley Sound by early next week.

Until then, we are enjoying playing on the (finally) sunny beach and clear cool water here at the spit. We sure enjoyed the wifi, hot showers, laundromats, garbage bins, West Marines and fish & chips shops. But digging our toes in the warm soft sand of the islands together is all we truly need.

Plans and Priorities

When we really started planning this summer’s journey a few months ago we had developed a firm goal of sailing around Vancouver Island. In the past, when Michael and I sailed as a couple, our destinations were our main priority. We set out to reach a certain place and got used to sailing our boats with each other as we went along.

This time around, we’d only been underway a handful of days when we quickly realized that our hierarchy of priorities for the next six weeks or so, our shakedown period, was no longer topped by our destination but a very different set of priorities:

1. Getting used to sailing for long periods and managing the boat while taking care of our two young children
2. Testing Wondertime’s systems, getting the boat organized and ready for offshore sailing
3. Getting used to living together 24/7 in our small space with limited resources (i.e. water, power, internet and cell phones)
4. Visiting with friends and family along the way
5. Finally, visiting some really cool northwest places before we point our bow south

Early on, we wondered if our plan to go around Vancouver Island was too ambitious. Would we just feel rushed? Would the girls get tired of being on the go day after day? (Would I?) Would we get tired of motoring mile after mile? Would we not get the chance to really have enough time as we wanted exploring our favorite places? It’s approximately 800 miles around the island and in order to reach Barkley Sound and be ready to head south by Labor Day (when we are picking up our extra crew) there would be little time for dilly dallying.

We tossed our options around, trying to figure out how to mesh our personal cruising style (spending more time in fewer places), our limitations (being able to travel only a few hours each day at this point with our restless little ones) with our dream of circumnavigating Vancouver Island. Even at Sucia Island we still were on the fence. Could we do it? We set up a general route with how many days we’d like to spend at each stop. We thought about what we really wanted to see but haven’t yet (the west coast of the island). One option was simply to head out the Strait of Juan de Fuca directly for Barkley Sound and spend a month exploring that enormous area as well as Tofino and Hot Springs Cove just north of there.

We spent three full days kicking around Sucia Island. The girls absolutely loved it there. Woods to run through, sandy beaches to dig our toes in, amazing sandstone sculptures to marvel at and climb on: the perfect island playground. Yesterday, we motored through glassy seas across the border to Canada and checked in at Sidney, B.C. Here we are enjoying Wondertime’s first foreign port, visiting with dear friends we met on our way to Mexico nine years ago and installing the shiny new mast tangs we finally found at a rigging shop here.

We’ll stay until our boat jobs are done, some fresh food is aboard, and the wind stops howling in from the west end of the straits. Then we’ll head west to Barkley Sound for six weeks of Northwest cruising paradise.