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Cruising Bootcamp. Part Two.

When we motored north from La Conner out of the Swinomish Channel the following day we had planned on an easy 9 mile trip to a cozy anchorage on Saddlebag Island near Anacortes. It was a windy day, with local forecasts for up to 20 knots or so. We were traveling through protected waters though and weren’t too concerned.

It was a long, breezy slog out of the Swinomish; because the channel was so narrow we chose to motor through it so we could stay in the center of the channel. Once we were clear of the final set of markers and into the deeper water of Padilla Bay we pulled out the staysail and scooted along on the last two miles to Saddlebag.

We were disappointed when we arrived at our expected anchorage however. The anchorage was tiny and looked quite shallow. It also was not very well protected from the SW winds blowing. It only took us a minute to decide to continue on. We scoured our guidebook for another anchorage. Our choices in the area were very limited: either backtrack to Anacortes or continue on to Lummi Island where Inati Bay looked promising. We decided to press northwards.

Luckily the SW wind, while strong and gusty, made for a fantastic sail with our staysail and mizzen up. The gloom had even cleared up and the sun was shining upon us as we sailed on. We were very pleased with Wondertime’s easy, balanced motion even in heavier winds.

Two hours later we finally reached Inati Bay. The steep hillsides of Lummi Island were sending williwaws down into the anchorage that we were disappointed to see already crowded with other boats. We found a spot along the north side of the pretty bay where we could tuck in and dropped our Rocna into 35 feet of water. After letting the chain out we reversed as usual to set the hook; instead of grabbing onto the bottom as expected the hook just kept dragging and dragging; since we were now heading backwards out of the bay we had no choice but to crank all 120′ of chain up with our manual windlass. It took more effort than usual to get the anchor up and with it came a bit of line so we assume it had become fouled on something. With the wind still howling down the hillsides it was no easy feat to keep the boat in position; the rock cliffs were much too near for our liking as well as other anchored boats. We knew it was not a good situation and decided quickly to ditch Inati and head further north still. Our next destination was to be Sucia Island so that is where we pointed our bow. It was nearly 2000 by this time however so we were not especially thrilled with continuing on.

The wind continued to howl as we motorsailed up Hale Passage. We were comfortable on board though: I cooked chili below while Holly was tucked into her carseat in the cockpit and Leah had decided to take a (rare!) nap in her bunk below. We hoped the crazy gusts were just the effect of the land but as we rounded the top of Lummi Island we were greeted by 25-30 knots and accompanying wind waves from the southwest. We motorsailed on, trying to reach Sucia before nightfall.

I tucked Holly into her bed too and told the girls it was going to be a little bumpy for a while. They weren’t concerned at all and thought it was great fun to bounce around in their forward bunks while we pounded onward. We only had seven miles to go to Sucia though and even with the wind and seas made about 4 knots as we splashed and bounced through the wind-streaked waves and watched the sun set.

Finally, at 2230 we reached Echo Bay at Sucia Island. The wide open, protected anchorage had ample room and only a handful of other boats. We dropped our hook right smack in the middle in the last few minutes of dusk and all was still at last.

We have been here at Sucia for two idyllic days now and are contemplating a third. It’s sunny and calm. We’ve hiked the easy woodland trails onshore, played in the sand, dipped our toes in the chilly water, marveled at all the sandstone sculptures on shore, napped, read, explored by dinghy, eaten breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the sunny cockpit. It’s what we came this way for.

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Cruising Bootcamp. Part One.

The past three days have truly been a visit to cruising bootcamp. We’ve had it all: pea soup fog, dodging ships, calms, sun, clouds, breezy conditions, tricky navigation in narrow shallow channels, dicey anchorages, nearly fouling our anchor, salt water drenching, beating against wind and seas, anchoring in the dark, goodbyes to old friends and hellos to new ones.

After our quick visit to Blakely Harbor (and of course Blakely Rock), we had a quick easy sail over to Shilshole. Our friends from Lea Scotia (www.leascotia.com) met us there and kindly taxied us all over town for a few items we needed to get at Fisheries, West Marine and Fred Meyer. We enjoyed one last fish & chips dinner at the Lockspot then spent the evening aboard Wondertime going over our Vancouver Island charts with our friends, as they have circled the island multiple times previously.

The next day we were off to Kingston where we enjoyed a fantastic fireworks show from Grandpa’s back deck. It was a bittersweet visit, a difficult see-you-later to him and other family members who live in that area.

Wednesday morning we woke early, poked our heads out the hatch and were none too thrilled to discover a thick white fog had blanketed the sound overnight. Not to be deterred, we decided it was a good chance to test out our AIS system and new (to us) radar. Oh boy, is AIS a treat! We easily tracked the few ships that were in the lanes and crossed the sound without trouble.

Except for the open porthole above Holly’s bunk. After a 900 foot long cargo ship had passed, we started crossing the now open shipping lanes. We bounced over the ship’s huge wake and a wave of water was thrown into the anchor well. “You’d better go check the girls’ cabin!” Michael exclaimed. “I think their portholes are open!” When I got to their cabin, I found Holly sitting up in bed with water dripping down her hair. Seawater was still pouring in the little open porthole above her bunk and I quickly shut it and ran for some towels to dry her, her bed and her stuffed animals off. What a way to wake up!

The rest of the trip up to the Swinomish channel was fairly uneventful thankfully. We had a chance to sail a bit while we made our way up Saratoga passage between Camano and Whidbey Islands. The wind was extremely shifty so it was frustrating sailing but we did get to try out multiple sail combinations.

It was fairly low tide once we reached the Swinomish; Michael was white-knuckling the wheel as we entered the narrow, super shallow channel. With only 8 feet of water under the keel we were sweating keeping the boat right in the middle. Of course about a half-mile in we saw a tug ahead pulling a load of logs; we were able to sneak by on his port side and continue on to La Conner without incident.

We tied up to the guest dock at this adorable waterfront town and were greeted right away by our new friends Steven K. Roberts and Kirsten Hansen (www.microship.com). We’d met Steve last year at the Swantown boatyard when he had his beautiful Amazon 44, Nomadness, hauled out and kept in touch via Facebook. It was so wonderful to get to know this fascinating couple in person again. Steve is the first true technomad: he biked across the U.S. back in the late 80s on a fully computerized, HAM equipped recumbent bicycle he built and has launched countless technomadic engineering projects since. We spent a special evening getting to know these two new friends, sharing our similar philosophies and learning about all the entrepreneurial ventures they have underway. Very inspiring!

“You can have freedom, or you can have security but you can’t have both.” -Steven K. Roberts

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A week underway

First anchorage, Hope Island

If our logbook is correct, we are on day 7 of Living the Dream. It really does feel like a dream: we have truly begun a new life and it’s still a little shocking and hazy. These first few weeks are going to be bumpy, we remember this from our past trips but especially our two weeks up in the San Juans last summer. It takes a while to get the rhythm going. This past week has been filled with many goodbyes as we make our way north. That part is hard. It’s easy to forget that we won’t be passing the same place twice very often from now on. That gives us butterflies too, since each day is wholly unique and it’s oh so very exciting to think about all that is ahead of us.

Already we have to look at the calendar to know what day of the week it is; even just a week in, our days no longer have names but are known by events, places, memories. After arriving at Hope Island a week ago we relaxed, hiked, slept and stowed as planned. Two nights later we motored in flat calm to Point Defiance (Tacoma) where we visited our favorite little zoo one last time. We slept that night anchored at Quartermaster Harbor (Vashon Island), continuing north to Seattle the next day with plans to borrow a friend’s slip at Shilshole for a couple of nights. We were enjoying a lovely sail with SW breeze, the skyline of Seattle to starboard and Blakely Rock to port in the distance. Leah notices what’s on the port side and exclaims “I can’t wait until we go back to Blakely Rock!”

“Why not?” Michael and I shrug and we turn the wheel to port, now sailing towards one of our favorite Seattle anchorages. That’s what this life is about right? Traveling on the wind and a whim.

Saying hello to our elephant friends at the Point Defiance Zoo

We hadn't planned on taking a carseat with us, but it's quickly become a must-have item for our 2-1/2 year old cruiser

The Puget Sound really is lovely in July

Leah summits Blakely Rock

 

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We are off!

At 1820 PST last night we did it: a lovely group of our liveaboard dock friends gathered on our finger pier and tossed our lines aboard and we left.

It was so surreal, we were ecstatic, exhausted, giddy. It was one of the most difficult things we have ever done, but definitely the fourth most amazing day of our lives. After eight years of dreaming, scheming, planning and doing we are finally out here.

It was overcast when we motored away from Swantown for the last time. As we made our way through the channel markers the sun peeked out and Olympia’s skyline was aglow. Once clear of the channel we unfurled the genoa and hoisted our mizzen in the perfect 12-15 knots of wind on our beam. We sailed north, watching the skyline of our former home get smaller and smaller. Wondertime was clearly happy to be on her way too; even weighted down with thousands of extra pounds of stuff we were making 6.5 knots over ground.

Two hours later, we dropped our hook off Hope Island for a final visit to our favorite island. We’ll stay here for a day, unwinding, napping, sorting all the piles of stuff below, folding laundry and taking a last hike around the island. After setting the anchor we looked back towards Budd Inlet one last time. The sun had found a break in the clouds and a rainbow was on the horizon. We went below to eat dinner and crash into bed. Our first sleep, cruising.

P.S. We’ll be updating our position daily via Yotreps — see the link to the right on the sidebar.

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Countdown to cruising: 1 day to go

That’s it. Our final full day in town is done. Last items have been put into our 5’x5′ storage unit, trip to Trader Joes complete (I had no idea you could even haul $400 worth of food in one of those tiny carts! Must be all the chocolate I stocked up on). We also picked up a netbook to use for navigation so our main laptop won’t have to carry all the computing duties. Leah and I got haircuts, we visited some treasured friends in our old neighborhood, made one last trip to West Marine, hauled home a 15 lb. bag of cat food (that should last our 8 lb. cat a while at least), ran through the car wash, unloaded the car one last time, delivered our dear old Subaru to her new owner, visited with some dock neighbors, tucked our exhausted girls into bed, and I headed out for one final Mom’s Night Out at our favorite pub.

I came home to this:

I’ll get on it in the morning.

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