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Anchor Down, Hope Island

When we woke up this morning, I knew at once we were swinging on our anchor. I knew this because the sun was shining and a square of it swung across the cabin top above our bunk in a graceful arc. At anchor feels nothing like being tied to a static dock. Here, the boat dances always, even if just tiny little steps at a time. Her bow bobs gently up and down in the wind waves, she swings slowly one way, then the other, gliding with the currents. Out here, there is always, always motion.

We spent the better part of the past week putting Wondertime back together: re-stitched headsails on, rigging tightened and tuned, cotter pins in, toys put away below. We cleared the cockpit of the piles of clutter that had gathered the past seven months we’ve been tied to the steadily unmoving dock. The forecast this weekend is for temperatures in the low 50s, light winds, partially sunny and only a few rain showers. It’s the best weather we’ve had since October: time to sail.

Yesterday, Friday, we loaded groceries onboard, took down our Shade(rain) Tree cockpit cover, tied the dinghy to the stern, piled sail covers in the shower, started the diesel and — the most difficult part of any trip — tossed the docklines aboard. We reversed out of our slip and found ourselves doing what had seemed impossible with the boat is such disarray just last week: floating free. Out in the inlet, once clear of the shoals, we hoisted our new Lee main and mizzen sails for the first time. We only had about 5 knots of wind ruffling down from the north but with only the mainsail up, Wondertime heeled a bit and was already sailing.

Engine off, we glide along under low clouds and fog. We are sailing at 2.5 knots through heavy mist; soon the water builds up on the sails and booms and it is not long before it feels like a full-on rain to us. It does not matter though: it feels so good to be moving towards our destination with free wind. We huddle under our dodger, coming out only to tack a few times. Holly naps cozily below and Leah and Xena are snug in their cockpit nest of pillows and blankets. I escape below to boil water for hot cocoa.

Three hours later we are just south of Boston Harbor, 4 miles as the crow flies from Olympia. We are soaked and cold and hungry but are giddy with having made our way under sail. The sails are rolled in and flaked and we make our last mile under power to Hope Island. As we come upon our favorite beach, Michael readies the shiny new Rocna anchor at the bow. I slow the boat, neutral, then reverse and he drops our virgin anchor into the murky green sea. We slowly drift backward and the Rocna grabs immediately (and immediately we are in love; we are used to dragging backward for meters before our CQRs finally set).

We tidy up on deck, put out our cockpit anchor light, then go below for our regularly scheduled Friday pizza and movie. Afterwards, we tuck the girls into their beds and talk about our plans to hike and explore our favorite island the next day; despite their reverberating excitement they fall asleep the second we turn out the light. At home, at Hope Island.

A taste of the good life

We were fortunate for Michael to get two weeks off of work in August so we could take a little sailing vacation. This was our longest break since 2003. It was time. We headed north to the San Juan Islands, Wondertime stuffed full with two little girls, two ancient cats, two excited parents, two topped off water tanks, and enough food to get us to Hawaii.

This was to be our first real shakedown cruise, both in terms of narrowing down The List of what we need to get done before we head down the coast next summer, and also to get some serious practice sailing with two young children. And after two marvelous, but incredibly short, weeks we can say with certainty that cruising with children is absolutely nothing like cruising without children.

It’s much more fantastic.

It is also much slower. Olympia is quite a long way from the San Juan Islands, traveling at walking speed. Actually, crawling speed, if you are as bad as timing the currents as we were this trip. We were more interested in timing our travel time for afternoon naptime. Almost 2-year old Holly is at the stage where she is very good at getting around now, wants to explore everything and has to be watched every second, at least when out in the cockpit. Which leaves one person to tend the boat and the other to tend to the toddler. Leah is great at fending for herself — at 4-1/2 she does just fantastic on the boat; she has a definite sense of safety and helps us out quite a bit.

So on our trek northward, we would leave just before or after lunchtime and arrive at our destination four or five hours later. This would leave the morning for exploring and the afternoon for naps or rest and travel. What this also meant was it took us nearly a week to reach the islands and a few days to return (sailing down with the current thankfully!)

No matter. On our first lengthy sailing trip with our two girls it quickly became clear that being anywhere on the boat was all that mattered. Each and every stop contained something new, something magical, something to savor and study.

When you sail with children you have to look; they discover things about the places we visit that we’d never notice or even think to look for. The years Michael and I spent sailing together were filled with many anchorages where we’d never even go ashore; we’d happily spend days on the boat just reading and lounging around. No chance of that now! Every anchorage is filled with a dinghy expedition to shore, or at least along the shore just to see what there is to see. Kids are certainly like puppies this way.

These days, when we look at the guidebook we keep an eye out for things that the girls would really love, like a museum or nice beach. But the truth is the best things we find are completely unexpected, like meeting “Popeye” the one-eyed plump seal in Friday Harbor or watching the phosphorescence up close in a bucket of fresh seawater at night.

A hike now might mean a one-mile meander down a wooded trail with frequent — very frequent — stops to pluck bugs, flowers, pinecones, or berries. All the while searching for the perfect hiking stick. Cruising with children is slow, but maybe that’s how it’s supposed to be.

Despite all the wonderful moments, the first week of our trip truthfully was hectic and a little draining. I wondered if we were crazy for taking these two tiny busy children sailing. The alternator was alarming, the kids were bickering, the refrigerator box was too full and what I needed was unfailingly at the bottom of it all. It rained. The adults bickered. But we reached Stuart Island, the most northwestern point of the continental United States. We hiked to Turn Point Light again. We went exploring in the dinghy to deserted islands. We hunted jellyfish. We cooked and ate many meals together. We picnicked. We were bone tired at the end of each day. As soon as the children were asleep in bed the adults soon followed. But were were happy and content. We fell into the rhythm of weighing anchor, traveling to the next port, dropping the hook, setting up the dinghy and setting off to discover what was new there. And the frazzled edges of this new way of living seemed to weave together until we began to dread heading back to our hectic 9-5 lives again.

By the time our bow was heading south late in our second week on our little moving island, we thought longingly: yes, we could keep going indeed.

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